How to plan your first European motorhome trip – Part 5: Ireland, Denmark and Greece

Welcome back, fellow road-trippers! Siobhan here with the fifth instalment of our mammoth 20-country European motorhome guide. We've traversed the continent from the sun-drenched coasts of Portugal to the icy fjords of Norway, taking in the quirks and rules of twelve distinct nations along the way. Now, it's time to add three more spectacular destinations to the itinerary.

In this edition, we're exploring the rugged, mystical landscapes of Ireland, the flat, cycling-obsessed expanse of Denmark, and the ancient, sun-baked shores of Greece. Three very different countries, three entirely different driving experiences, and a whole new set of rules to wrap your head around. Whether you're navigating single-track Irish lanes, cruising Danish motorways, or dealing with Greece's strict new motorhome laws, you need to be prepared. So, put the kettle on, grab a biscuit, and let's get into it.

Ireland: Left-hand driving and narrow lanes

Let's start close to home. Ireland is an absolute joy to explore by motorhome. The scenery is wild, the people are famously welcoming, and the pubs are legendary. Driving the Wild Atlantic Way or the Causeway Coastal Route is a bucket-list experience. But before you get carried away with visions of Guinness and green hills, there are a few practicalities to sort out. The most obvious difference for UK drivers? Nothing! Well, almost nothing. Ireland drives on the left, just like us, which instantly removes the biggest hurdle of European driving.

However, don't let that lull you into a false sense of security. While the motorways are modern and excellent, the moment you venture onto the rural roads – which is where you'll want to be – things get tight. Very tight. Many of the most scenic routes are single-track lanes with passing places, often bordered by unforgiving stone walls or thick hedges. If you're driving a large coachbuilt motorhome, you need to be confident in your reversing skills and spatial awareness. On the famous tourist routes like the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula, there's an unspoken rule: drive in the recommended direction (anti-clockwise for Kerry, clockwise for Dingle) to avoid meeting tour buses head-on. Trust me, you do not want to reverse a 7-metre motorhome up a mountain pass to let a coach past.

Irish speed limits and the eFlow toll system

When it comes to speed limits, the Republic of Ireland uses kilometres per hour (km/h), while Northern Ireland uses miles per hour (mph). This can be confusing if you're crossing the border, so keep an eye on your speedometer. In the Republic, the limits were updated in February 2025. Motorways are 120km/h (74mph), national roads are 100km/h (62mph), and rural/local roads have been reduced to 60km/h (37mph). Built-up areas remain at 50km/h (31mph). Motorhomes under 3.5 tonnes follow the same limits as cars, but if you're towing a caravan, you're capped at 80km/h (50mph) on motorways.

Tolls in Ireland are fairly straightforward, but there's one major trap for the unwary: the M50 Dublin Ring Road. This uses a barrier-free, electronic tolling system called eFlow. There are no booths to stop at; cameras simply read your number plate as you drive under the gantry. If you don't have an electronic tag, you must pay the toll by 8pm the following day. You can do this online, via their app, or at any shop displaying the Payzone logo. Forget to pay, and the fines escalate rapidly. Other toll roads, like the M1, M4, and the Dublin Port Tunnel, have traditional booths where you can pay with cash (Euros) or card. Motorhomes generally pay the same rate as cars, regardless of weight, which is a nice bonus.

Irish wild camping and required kit

Wild camping in Ireland is a bit of a grey area. Officially, it's not permitted unless you're in a designated spot or have the landowner's permission. However, in reality, it's often tolerated in rural areas provided you're discreet, don't block access, and leave absolutely no trace. Just use your common sense. If a spot looks sensitive or has "No Overnight Parking" signs, move on. The campsite infrastructure is excellent, though many sites close between October and Easter, so winter touring requires more planning.

As for required equipment, Ireland is remarkably relaxed. There is no compulsory kit you legally must carry as a visitor. However, a warning triangle, first-aid kit, fire extinguisher, and spare bulbs are highly recommended. If you're bringing a vehicle from the continent, you must ensure your headlights are adjusted for left-hand traffic. The drink-drive limit is a strict 0.05% (50mg per 100ml of blood), dropping to 0.02% for novice or professional drivers. Enforcement is rigorous, and penalties are severe, so it's best to stick to the zero-tolerance approach. Since the Republic of Ireland is part of the Common Travel Area, UK citizens don't need a passport to enter, though photo ID is required for ferries, and you don't need a Green Card for your insurance.

Denmark: Bridges, bicycles, and the 100 sticker

Moving swiftly on to Scandinavia, or at least the gateway to it. Denmark is flat, efficient, and incredibly easy to drive around. It's a country of islands connected by some of the most impressive bridges in the world, and it's famous for its cycling culture. If you're heading to Norway or Sweden, you'll likely pass through Denmark, but it's well worth a trip in its own right. The infrastructure is top-notch, the roads are immaculate, and the scenery, while lacking mountains, has a serene, coastal beauty.

The first thing you'll notice in Denmark is the bicycles. They are everywhere, and they have priority. When turning right at a junction, you must yield to cyclists going straight ahead on the cycle path. This catches many foreign drivers out, so check your blind spots obsessively. The second thing you'll notice is the lack of tolls on the roads. Denmark's motorways are entirely free to use. However, you will pay handsomely to cross the major bridges. The Storebælt Bridge (connecting Funen and Zealand) and the Øresund Bridge (connecting Copenhagen to Sweden) both charge significant tolls. Motorhomes are charged based on total length (usually under or over 6 metres, and over 10 metres). You can pay by card at the booths, but if you're planning multiple crossings, getting a BroBizz or ØresundPay electronic tag can save you over 50% on the Storebælt crossing.

Danish speed limits and the magic sticker

Speed limits in Denmark are standard: 50km/h (31mph) in towns, 80km/h (50mph) on rural roads, and 130km/h (80mph) on motorways. However, if your motorhome is over 3.5 tonnes, you are restricted to 80km/h on motorways. But there's a workaround! You can apply for a Danish "100 sticker" (Tempo 100-mærke) from a Danish vehicle inspection centre. Once your motorhome passes the inspection and you display the sticker, you're legally allowed to drive at 100km/h (62mph) on Danish motorways. It's well worth doing if you're spending significant time there.

Like Sweden and Norway, Denmark requires you to drive with your dipped headlights or daytime running lights on at all times, day and night, all year round. This is strictly enforced. Surprisingly, there is no legally compulsory equipment you must carry in your vehicle—no warning triangle, no high-vis vests—though both are strongly recommended. The drink-drive limit is 0.05%, dropping to 0.02% for new drivers. If you're caught with a blood alcohol level over 0.20%, the Danish police have the power to confiscate your vehicle and auction it off, with the proceeds going to the state. So, again, don't risk it.

Danish wild camping and Low Emission Zones

Unlike its Nordic neighbours, Denmark does not have the "everyman's right" to roam. Wild camping is strictly prohibited. You cannot simply pull over in a forest or on a beach and spend the night. You are allowed to sleep in your vehicle at official highway rest areas to "restore your fitness to drive," but you cannot set up any camping equipment outside the van. Fortunately, Denmark has a fantastic network of campsites and a growing number of dedicated motorhome pitches (stellplatz), many of which are located on farms or near marinas.

If you're driving an older, heavier motorhome, you need to be aware of Denmark's Low Emission Zones (Miljøzoner). These are currently in place in Copenhagen, Frederiksberg, Aarhus, Aalborg, and Odense. Diesel vehicles over 3.5 tonnes must have a particulate filter or meet Euro 6 standards to enter these zones. Most motorhomes under 3.5 tonnes are unaffected, but if you're driving a heavy rig, check the rules before you accidentally blunder into a fine.

Greece: Ancient ruins and strict new rules

Finally, we head south to the Mediterranean. Greece is a stunning destination for a motorhome trip. The history, the food, the islands, the endless coastline—it's idyllic. Getting there usually involves driving down through Italy and catching a ferry across the Adriatic from Ancona, Bari, or Venice to Patras or Igoumenitsa. It's a long journey, but the reward is a country that feels entirely different from the rest of Europe.

However, the motorhome landscape in Greece has changed dramatically recently. In January 2025, the Greek government introduced Law 5170/2025, which effectively banned wild camping and overnight parking outside of licensed campsites, with immediate €300 fines. Following an uproar from the vanlife community, this was revised in July 2025 with Law 5209/2025. The new rules are clearer but still strict. Wild camping remains entirely illegal. However, a distinction is now made between "parking" and "camping." Motorhomes under 7.5 metres can park in towns like regular cars with no time limit. Vehicles over 7.5 metres can park in residential areas for a maximum of 24 hours.

Greek camping behaviour and required kit

The crucial point in Greece is "camping behaviour." You can park legally, but the moment you sleep, cook, or set up chairs, tables, or an awning outside your vehicle in a public space, you are breaking the law. Even sleeping inside a legally parked motorhome in a public area is considered illegal. Overnight stays are now strictly limited to licensed campsites or private property (and private property can only host one camper at a time unless licensed). The police are actively enforcing this, especially in tourist hotspots, so don't assume you can get away with it on a quiet beach anymore.

When driving, the speed limits are 50km/h (31mph) in built-up areas, 90km/h (56mph) on rural roads, and 130km/h (80mph) on motorways for cars. Motorhomes under 3.5 tonnes are restricted to 100km/h (62mph) on motorways and 80km/h (50mph) on rural roads. Vehicles over 3.5 tonnes are limited to 90km/h on motorways. Greece is heavily tolled on its main motorways (like the route from Athens to Thessaloniki or Patras). It's a traditional pay-as-you-go system at booths, and motorhomes are usually classed as Category 2 (based on having two axles).

Your compulsory kit list for Greece is extensive. You must carry a warning triangle, a first-aid kit, a fire extinguisher, and a reflective safety vest. If your vehicle doesn't have EU number plates, you must display a UK sticker. The drink-drive limit is 0.05%, dropping to 0.02% for new or professional drivers. And a word of warning: Greek drivers can be assertive, and priority is given to vehicles coming from the right unless otherwise signed. Keep your wits about you, especially on the narrow island roads where your motorhome might feel suddenly very large indeed!

What's next?

So, there you have it. Three more countries ticked off the list, each with its own unique challenges and rewards. From the narrow lanes of Kerry to the toll bridges of Denmark and the strict new parking laws of Greece, preparation is everything.

In Part 6, we'll be heading into the heart of Central Europe. We'll be looking at the vignette systems, winter rules, and stunning landscapes of the Czech Republic, Poland, and Slovenia. Until then, keep the shiny side up and happy travels!

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